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October 31, 2006

The Perils of Being a Size 0

TMZ reports that Nicole Richie collapsed just before 2AM Sunday morning, while partying at Hyde nightclub in Hollywood (her publicist denies it, of course).  This is only days after Richie entered a residential treatment facility for her weight.

Richie has gone from healthy to scary:

Nicole_richie_in_bikini

The transformation seemed to begin when Richie hooked up with stylist, Rachel Zoe.  Zoe transformed Richie's look, and she began wearing a chic, boho style at the same time as she began shrinking in size.  Some rumors suggest Zoe is partly responsible for the weight loss, and that extreme measures have been in play.  It has been alleged that Zoe offers her clients diet drugs to help them stay slim.  While these allegations seem far-fetched, she's a stylist not a pusher, (moreover Zoe denies them), they speak to the difficulty of achieving weight loss without taking extreme measures.

We're getting bigger, and sizes are getting smaller

Between demographics and "vanity sizing", it's quite surprising when a woman with an average size body can't wear clothes from the likes of Gucci.  Gucci's decision is a strategic one -- they want to offer up clothes only to a narrow slice of the population.  To the rest of us who want to wear Gucci, the choice is clear.  Accessories.  And from Gucci's perspective, selling us bags is preferable to selling us clothes because the profit margins are better.

In an even more perverse stroke, we see in this article in Newsweek, that some designers are beginning to offer "subzero" sizes.  Namely, they are seeking to fit those women who are too tiny to fit into a size 0.  Nicole Miller is among the designers introducing the smaller sizes.  Apparently, there were enough complaints from women wearing size 0 who had to do alterations to their Nicole Miller clothes, that the designer decided to expand her line down a size.  It's interesting to note that Nicole Miller, whose dresses cost between $300 and $600, only offers clothes through size 12. 

Does this mean that size 00s have louder, more persuasive voices than size 14s?  Or does it mean that designers feel comfortable ignoring the needs of larger women?

Angelinajolie_in_nicole_miller

Angelina Jolie looking spectacular in Nicole Miller

Vanity Sizing?

This article by the Associated Press looks into the phenomenon of "vanity sizing" - namely, how variable and arbitrary the sizing can be from designer to designer.  For instance, though I am confident that I'd wear a 14 in Gucci (were it available!), I usually wear a 12 in Armani.  I even have a few items in my closet that are size 10.  And it's true, wearing the size 10 offers a certain satisfaction.  Finding a roomy size 10, is so much more exciting than struggling to fit into a tiny size 14. And fighting for the opportunity to wear a tiny size 14 seems almost insane. 

Even seasoned shoppers get lured in to buy when they discover that they wear a smaller size (even if they have not lost weight).  Suze Yalof Schwartz, executive editor-at-large for Glamour magazine, noted in the article,  “It can make you feel fantastic,” she says. “It’s like stepping on a scale. It can make your day. Or, it can ruin your day.”

And that feeling, of course, will directly impact whether you make the purchase.

Maybe Gucci should loosen up its sizes a bit, so that size 8s can fit into size 6 dresses, and size 14s can finally get something to wear.  Then again, this change might mean Gucci sells clothes at the expense of bags.

October 30, 2006

Why Bother?

These are obvious questions: “Why bother?  Why try to influence Gucci to offer more sizes?”  After all, it’s easier and cheaper to take our money and shop somewhere other than Gucci when we need a dress.

For better or worse, it’s clothing by designers like Gucci that decorate magazines like Vogue and InStyle.   These designers whip an awful lot of people into a spending frenzy.  In 2005, Gucci alone had revenues of $2.3 billion, with North America accounting for sales of $463 million.  You can’t inspire those kinds of sales without influencing taste.  Unfortunately, Gucci (like many fashion houses) offers up a very narrow notion of what is beautiful.


Gucci_2_1

Pretty dress, but the model is terribly gaunt.  Note her spindly legs, and her bony chest.

Gucci_3

Yet another bony Gucci model.  Check out her neckline and collarbone.  The ensemble is very "Studio 54", and suggests a substitution of cocaine/nicotine for food.

Between the runway shows, the tiny sample sizes made available to fashion magazines for editorial work, and the sizes offered to the public that only go up to a size 10, Gucci systematically correlates thinness with its brand.  The irony is that clothing sales account for only 12% of Gucci’s revenues, and the bulk of its profits are generated from leather goods.  This means that Gucci has fostered a system where it trashes our body-image with its clothes, but buoys our mood with its bags.

In a nutshell:  Gucci embodies the power and perversity of fashion.

What to do with my Gucci bag?

OK….I admit it. I own a Gucci bag, so I’m part of the problem. I bought it three years ago, when it was on sale (50% off!!). At the time, I wore jeans and sweaters to work (hey, it was the software industry), and carrying a purse with panache was one of my only ways to assert some style.

My Gucci bag:

Guccibagsmall

Kinda cute, isn't it?  Unfortunately, now that I've figured out the adverse connection between Gucci's clothes and Gucci's bags, I can't use it.  Now I need to figure out what to do with it......

Should I stab it with a scary knife?

Guccibagstabsmaller


Or maybe I should take the cheese grater to it:

Guccibaggrater


Should I light it on fire?

Guccibagonfire

OK....Not a very impressive fire.  But I live in an apartment!  While I figure out what to do with my Gucci bag, I'm going to put it in my closet, where it will be consumed by chaos.  Try to find the bag in my messy closet.  Out of sight, out of mind.

Here's a picture of my closet:

Guccibagincloset

Knives.  Cheese graters.  Raging fires.  Messy closets.

What fate should befall your Gucci bag?

Who is BTB?

Janehead2

My name is Jane, and I’m an engineer who has spent many years working in product development and market strategy.  As a result, I know when a company is making a conscious decision to exclude potential customers.   And as one of those excluded by Gucci and other clothing designers, I don’t like it.  I work hard and save my money, so if I want to splurge periodically on something extravagant, I have the capacity to do so.

If you’re selling surfboards to 20 year old slackers, don’t market to me.  I don’t mind if surfboard designers make boards I cannot use. I feel differently about clothing designers, however.  Their marketing and sales decisions have broad implications.   By offering clothes only in smaller sizes, they reinforce outdated notions of what is physically attractive.  Whether it's color or cut, what Gucci does, other designers follow.  And when it comes to the sizes offered, Gucci's actions have implications beyond whether a size 14 can fit into one of their pretty purple dresses.  Must I savage my body to wear the latest clothes?  Aren’t there enough eating disorders already?  And don’t the designers need to acknowledge their complicity? 

The perversity of fashion is that, at the same time as designers like Gucci are telling me I’m too big for their clothes, they’re trying to entice me to buy their accessories.

As a size 14 who is tired of not having access to the most wonderful and exciting clothes, and who is tired of the way  designers like Gucci trash women's body image, I am taking action.  And if you feel the same way, please join me.

So……If you can’t buy a designer’s clothes, don’t buy their bags.  It’s that simple.

Designers We Love

Just like there are designers who make clothes that subvert women's body image, there are designers who acknowledge that few women wear a size 6.  Let's patronize 'em:

Giorgio Armani — I wear his suits (purchased, on sale, at the end of the season) until they’re practically falling apart. His clothes are elegant, flattering, and fit a broad range of sizes.

Chanel — Though I don’t own any Chanel, I’ve seen the line available in many sizes. What a shame that Karl Lagerfeld has such peculiar ideas about body size. Maybe losing so much weight on a crash diet did weird things to his cognitive skills?

Ralph Lauren — He offers clothes from his premium line, Black Label, all the way up to size 14. He also offers a line of clothes up to size 22.

Akris - The clothes can be a bit, uh, mature, but damnit, they fit really well! If you need a conservative, all purpose suit, Akris is a great alternative to Armani.

Etro - Fun and fanciful. I’ve seen Etro come in sizes as large as 50 (or about a US 14/16). Why should thin people be the only folks to enjoy paisley?

Gianfranco Ferre. I’m partial to Ferre. I was married in Ferre! Well, to be precise, it was a Ferre blouse and an Armani Collezioni skirt. My husband and I were very sneaky. We got married by a judge at lunch, and then attended a black-tie event that night for his work where we didn’t tell anyone what we had done. We wore big grins and the same clothes all day (though Norm switched to a bow tie)! — I wear my Ferre blouse whenever I can because it’s beautiful, and because it reminds me of a spectacular day.


Janeinferre_2


Please let me know of any designers that should be included.  I'm not a diligent shopper, so I'm sure some important names have been forgotten!

Gucci Contacts

Upset about the state of designer clothes, here are some people who can help:

Gucci Group’s PR Contact:

Paola Milani

+39 02 88 00 55 62

pmilani@gucci.it


– if you want to take it to the top…..

Gucci Group’s CEO:

Robert Polet

rwpolet@gucci.it

This is the man responsible for the entire Gucci Group’s line of brands, including Gucci, Bottega Veneta, Yves Saint Laurent, Balenciaga, Alexander McQueen and Stella McCartney.  If the CEO wants something, the CEO gets it.  And the last thing he wants is to be badgered about the sizes offered at Gucci.

A Call to Arms

Shopping is rarely easy. Between the salespeople, the dressing rooms, and the clothes, it’s a chore to find something that fits and flatters. This is especially true when your body doesn’t mesh with what the designers are offering. When you’re not a perfect size 6, shopping can be aggravating — more an exercise in frustration than an exercise in delight.

I was reminded of this while on the hunt for a dress. My husband and I were invited to a wedding in Napa Valley.  It was going to be a glamorous, fabulous affair, and I needed a dress that was up to the occasion.

On a quest for the perfect outfit, I went to all the logical places a New Yorker would visit. Bergdorf’s. Saks. Barney’s. I traveled from 5th Avenue to Madison Avenue.  Finally, I spotted the dress of my dreams on display in the Gucci window. It was purple silk, with a sexy, but not outrageous V-neck, a flattering empire waist, and an above the knee length. I don’t normally shop at Gucci, but I was desperate to own this dress.

I went inside the store, past the cases of jewelry, past the bags and the shoes, and found the dress on a rack on the second floor. The price tag was daunting (over $2K) but I rationalized the expense, knowing I’d wear the dress many times. When one of the black-clad salespeople wandered over, I asked her to bring me a size 14. Without blinking, she said that it was only available through size 10. 

I was shocked. My size is hardly extraordinary. It’s the size of the average American woman. By going only as high as size 10, Gucci is consciously excluding about 2/3 of their potential customers. How do their shareholders feel about that? Moreover, they are reinforcing unhealthy notions of body size. The implied message is that above a size 10, women are too big to look good in Gucci.

While I accept that companies may have policies that ignore some potential customers, the fact is, while Gucci may not want to sell me a dress, they DO want to sell me accessories. Which raises an obvious question:

If Gucci thinks I’m too big to wear their clothes, why should I wear their shoes or carry their bags?

We need to rethink our relationship with clothing designers. Before, if we couldn’t find designer clothes that fit, we would buy an accessory as a way of “dressing up” whatever we bought elsewhere. It was a compromise, and we settled. Now, we must reconsider this policy because it enables the designers to continue leaving our needs unsatisfied. Moreover, there’s a simple solution. If we can’t get clothes from a designer, we shouldn’t get bags from them either.

Which is why I created BoycottTheBag.com.

I know I’m not alone. I know that there are millions of women just like me — frustrated by the way designers like Gucci ignore our needs while still trying to profit from us. Gucci insults us with their clothes, while simultaneously seeking our money for their extremely lucrative leather goods. If this seems far-fetched, it isn’t.  Leather goods are the highest margin items sold by most designers, and they accounted for 54% of Gucci’s $2.3 billion in international sales in 2005. In North America, total sales in 2005 were close to half a billion dollars, which means Gucci sold about $250 million worth of bags in North America.  That's a lot of money, and a lot of bags.


Gucci_revenues_2005_2

Gucci's Revenues in 2005

The solution to this problem is a little consumer activism. It’s one thing not to buy a product, but we also need to tell the company what we’re doing. Here is a list of PR Contacts for Gucci. If BoycottTheBag.com inspires you, let them know what you are (or aren’t!) doing.